Maybe it was because I already had a bit more experience with traveling or maybe it had to do with the fact that the Indonesian people and Indonesian food felt familiar. I can’t really tell but let’s keep it at a mix of both. Java felt like home.
I stayed at homestays or locally runned guesthouses where I was warmly welcomed into cozy environments. I got up at half past four in the morning for morning prayers – it is hard not to wake up. I took the local train and shared food, stories and pictures with fellow passengers. I was approached at almost every turn on the street. People of age spoke in Dutch after I had told them I’m from Belanda. Without given it any second thought I jumped on the back of a scooter with them ‘boys in green’. I visited my grandmother’s birthplace, the cemetery in Leuwigajah and the pawnshop in Sragen, where my greatgrandfather used to live and work. Gosh, come to think about how special that trip was..
First things first
Before you go download the GoJek and Grab app. They basically work the same as Uber. The cost are considerably lower than using a regular taxi. Besides you don’t have to negotiate about the price. You just have to be connected to the internet in order to use these apps. Therefore you buy a local SIM card. You can do so at the airport but I recommend going to a shopping center down town. Saves a little money. At the airport you can use the WiFi network anyway. A SIM card from Telekomsel gives you couverage throughout the country, including the smaller islands. It suppose to cost around 100K (around €6) for 12G – but that was 2018. I have both used Gojek and Grab but I prefer the GoJek app as this app displays the actual costs. With Grab – depending on toll roads and parking costs – an additional amount is added sometimes. The boys in green – as they are also called – are now your new best friends. It’s the perfect way to explore Java and get to know the traffic chaos. Java also has a very good train network. Moreover, traveling by train is often much faster and cheaper than traveling by car. Apart from those really great toilets, it is also just a lot more fun to travel amoungst locals. Let me put it this way: I have recovered form my childhood trauma. Please take the train to your next destination!
Jakarta
Your journey will most likely start in Jakarta. Previously I wrote an article about why you shouldn’t skip the capitol city. Count at least 3 days to explore Jakarta. Obviously you will visit all the important historical sights that may remind you – or think of – The Netherlands. The past has brought our country much prosperity. However, please do not forget that the Dutch influence has cost Indonesia itself a lot. So don’t limit yourself by only visiting the old VOC buildings but go to the national monument Monas aswell. Monas symbolizes the country’s independence. A visit to the local market or Istiqal mosque will give you a feel of the everyday life of Java today. The latter is a must anyway since Indonesia has the largest population of Muslims in the world. Please dress appropiate – also during the rest of your journey. No, not because it is necessarily expected of you but more because it shows some respect while visiting a different country. This goes for other countries in South East Asia aswell btw.
Bandung
The capital of West Java is located about 150 kilometers from Jakarta. Along the way you’ll pass beautifull ricefields. Bandung’s surroundings are absolutely stunning but the city itself is also hip and happening – read: lots of coffee shops and restaurants. The main reason I wanted to visit Bandung was because it is close to Leuwigajah. On the cemetery in Leuwigajah you find a monument in memory of the victims of Junyo Maru – the Japanese cargo ship that was torpedoed on september 18th 1944. One of those victims was my greatgrandfather. It made my visit to the cemetery a bit more personal. I bought flowers from one of the vendors in front of the entrance and left the flowers behind.
I also visited the teaplantages in Ciwidey and went to Kawah Putih. I hired a private driver with a scooter. The great thing about a private driver is that you can stop where and when ever you want. You often also visit places where organized tours don’t go. I therefore suggest you do the same. Kawah Putih is a crater lake at an altitude of 2400 meters. Due to the high sulfur content it smells quite nasty. It is recommended not to stay too long but the sight is amazing! I turned out to be a sight aswell by the way. Locals weren’t taking pictures of the lake but of me. It’s quite normal since people don’t see much foreign tourist in some places – let alone a woman, by herself. Bet they thought I was crazy.
Yogya(karta)
Yogya is perhaps the coolest city of Java. It will also be the most touristic place of your trip – together with Mount Bromo. Obviously everybody pays a visit to Borobudur and Prambanan – and so will you. Make sure you go see Borobudur at sunrise and Prambanan at sunrise. Not to skip the crowds but because both temples are at their best during those particular times. Find yourself a friendly local who is willing to drive you around for a few rupiah. It will give you so much more freedom. We drove through rice fields and made a quick stop at one of the many creative viewpoint in th area. Unfortunately it was a bit foggy that day so I didn’t see much of those views. Nevertheless, the Chicken Church was still a nice addition to the day. But to be very honest: anything after Borobudur kind of disappoints.
The best thing to do in Yogyakarta is to explore the city itself. Promiss me you will go to the local market by yourself. Try some durian (not my favourite) and order gudeg (delish). Get lost in those narrow streets looking for street art and other hidden gems. Greet people with a friendly ‘pagiii’ – hold that i for a second. Kindness doesn’t cost you a thing but often give you the most memorable experiences. I was invited into someones home for a cup of tea, for example. He turned out to be an artist, which was pretty cool! The fact that he welcomed me, wearing nothing but his underpants is just a tiny unimportant detail of the story. It was a very hot day that day. Live a little!
If that makes you a bit too uncomfortable then at least visit Taman Sari before you leave Yogya. This beautiful water castle was built by sultan’s orders and was used for pleasures with his many wives. Monogamy wasn’t really his thing. Back then a one-sided open relationship was very common – and expensive apperently. And while you’re at it, do not skip Fort Vredeburg either. You gotta love Yogya!
Surakarta
My journey continued to Surakarta aka Solo. What there to do and see? Solo is best know for its antique market and special batik. For me it’s the area where my greatgrandparents have lived. In Sragan to be precise, which is a small village just out of the city. My greatgrandfather had a pawn shop there. The pawn shop is still used as a pegadaian. Behind the fairly modern building are still desolated houses from that time, as well as a waterhole from my grandmother’s stories of when she was a little girl. It felt really special to have been there!
Equally special was the rest of that day. My driver only spoke a few words of English and took me to some less discovered but amazing places. Solo has beautiful surroundings aswell. I learned how rice is harvested, I took some selfies with total strangers at Grojogan Sewu Waterfall and visited Candi Sukuh. Surprisingly enough, it turned out the be yet another great day!
I hear you thinking: “doesn’t it get disappointing at some point?” Both yes and no. After Surakarta I first traveled to Mount Bromo, which turned out to be the most beautiful and terrible place of Java at the same time. All of a sudden the Indonesian hospitality was nowhere to be found. That sucks, but once you arrive at Mount Bromo you realize you landed on a different planet. Mount Bromo does not offer kindness to win over your heart, instead it gives you a sunrise you will never forget. However, temperatures suddenly feel more like home and us Dutch are not known as the most friendly either so oh well.. I guess Mount Bromo also felt a bit like home.
Malang
Malang was my last stop on Java. Malang showered me with that Indonesian kindness again. I stayed at Lekker slappie, a cozy room in Blue Village. Andini – a former student of Groningen University – was staying at Jakarta at the time. I was warmly welcomed by her brother and her parents. Even though I never met Andini herself, a friendship developed through social media. Just a tiny tip to take in consideration: set your alarm around a quarter past four. Saves the fright of your life. I nearly had a heart attack just before half past four. There is a mosque right next to the house. It was quite an intense morning prayer for me. I did sleep wondefully after. I didn’t do much more than stroll through colorful kampungs, snuggle with cats, play with children and talk to residents. I loved it! The next day I left for Bali to travel to Flores and the Komodo Islands. To be continued…
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